When it comes to creating the perfect brows, nailing the shape is absolutely essential. In my brow training course where I teach how to create perfect brows, I emphasise that achieving those dream brows is all about mastering the shape. I teach my students three crucial styling rules that are the backbone of brow design, and I’m about to share them with you.

Rule #1: Avoid the Drooping Brow

Let’s start with what I consider the most important rule: avoiding the dreaded drooping brow. You’ve probably seen those flawless brows online—sharp, precise, and seemingly perfect in close-up shots. But take a step back and look at those same brows from a distance, and you might notice they droop. Just like lash extensions aren’t just there to look pretty—they’re meant to enhance natural features—brows should be styled to frame the face and correct imperfections, not create them.

The position of the brow’s arch is key here. When we’re marking the brows, we focus on three main points: A, B, and C. And there’s also an upper B and a lower B. The golden rule is to ensure that the C point (the tail of the brow) does not dip below the A point (the start of the brow). If that C point falls too low, it creates a drooping effect, which, trust me, can add a good ten years to your client’s appearance.

Sometimes, you might have clients with naturally downturned brows, making it tricky to avoid some droop. If brow lamination doesn’t do the trick, and the only solution is to remove the tail, we have to be careful. Our job as brow artists is to preserve as much natural hair as possible, so yes, there may be times when the C point sits slightly below the A point, but this should be a last resort.

Remember: a drooping brow can age a client by ten years, while a lifted brow can take those years right off. This is why I drill this concept into my students, covering it multiple times during training to make sure it sticks.

Rule #2: Keep Your Brows Proportional

Next up is the importance of keeping your brows proportionate. The flat brow trend has become super popular, and I’m all for it—I love a flat, bushy brow. But the problem is, when people go for that flat look, they often end up with brows that are out of proportion.

To make sure your brow design stays proportional, you need to check the widths of the different sections of the brow. Here’s the key: the middle of the brow should never be wider than the bulb (the innermost part of the brow). I always teach my students to use a precision stick to check these proportions. Simply place the stick parallel to the face and mark the width of the bulb. Then, move it to the middle of the brow and mark it again. The middle section should always be narrower than the bulb to maintain that perfect balance.

Rule #3: Join the Dots with Precision

Lastly, once you’ve marked those key points, it’s crucial to join them up with precision. When connecting the top lines, you want to ensure that the dots create a straight line. One of my favourite methods is using mapping string—hold it tight and use it to mark the joints. This technique helps you create a straight upper line. Sometimes, it might result in a pointy upper B, but no worries—you can simply soften the curve slightly before applying tint or waxing.

Conclusion

So, there you have it—the three essential rules for creating beautifully designed brows that enhance your client’s natural features. Avoiding droop, keeping things proportional, and joining those dots with precision are the keys to success. These techniques are the foundation of flawless brow design, and once you’ve mastered them, you’ll be well on your way to giving your clients the perfect brows they’ve always wanted.

Whether you’re just starting out or you’re looking to refine your skills, remember these principles. They’ll help you create brows that not only look stunning up close but also enhance the overall appearance from every angle. And trust me, your clients will notice the difference.